The subframe connectors make the A bodies extermely stif for racing or for heavier powerplants. This update is easy (only have to move the brake lines), cheap (I think I had $20 and about three hours time total), and strong (you can jack up the car anywhere on the connector). It's cheaper too!! It does add a couple extra pounds, but let's face it: these cars are made from recycled soup cans and weigh only slightly less than my brother. I am happy to see that someone has documented the process, since it is much stronger than the aftermarket ones and superior to 2X2 steel or tube as well. I basically cut the one end into a big "U" and then butt welded the front to the cross member (the article shows a "T" shaped bracket that may be superior). Some mopar performance super stock springs and at least an adjustable pinion snubber to go on top of you rear axle will be a good start for you.Īmazing! I did that same conversion about 9 years ago on my Dart Sport!Īfter a lot of measuring I realized that the inside of 2X3 steel would fit directly over the rear frame rails. Easy to install than a 4 link and hooks up almost as good. Mine uses a coil over rear ladder bar set up. ![]() Also some good agressive shocks like Pro, Carrera, or Bilstien will be in order too. As for motor mounts I use a mounter plate. This is a must, no matter what anyone tells you. It's a piece of 2 x 3 box tubbing that welds in between the flat part of hte front sub frame and fits over the rear sub frame tying them together to prevent this warping from occuring. You'll also need a set of subframe connectors or the torque will twist hte body up quite bad. ![]() For drag only use the slant 6 bars or the race bars from mopar performance. If you will street drive it a lot, use 318 t bars fron a v8 Duster. JC, I have one of these cars and can help you out with yours.
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